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Wush Wush

Wush Wush is an Ethiopian landrace now grown in tiny plantings in Colombia: floral, tea-like and tropical, close to Geisha, low-yielding and very expensive.

Wush Wush takes its name from a village in southwestern Ethiopia, and it is one of a small group of Ethiopian landraces that have been propagated commercially in Latin America.

The profile

Floral and tea-like with pronounced tropical fruit — lychee, passion fruit, jasmine — a delicate body and a bright, layered acidity.

Comparable in style to Geisha, and different enough to be recognizable on its own.

Where it grows

Colombia principally, in very small plantings on quality-focused farms, plus a little in Panama and Ecuador.

Total production is minuscule, which is much of why it is expensive.

Why so little of it

Very low yield and a demanding plant. It also needs high altitude and careful handling to express the character that justifies the price.

Like Geisha, planted in the wrong place it produces ordinary coffee at extraordinary cost.

The processing question

Wush Wush is frequently processed anaerobically or with extended fermentation, which makes it difficult to separate the variety’s contribution from the process’s. Washed examples are rarer and more informative.

Price

Among the highest in specialty coffee, behind Geisha and alongside Sidra.

Brewing it

Filter, very light roast, the cleanest brewer you own, and water you have thought about.

What you need to make it

The equipment this actually requires — not a shopping list, the shortest route to doing it properly.